The Long Trip Home

Had an early start. Had a good hot breakfast, then while I stored the bags in the car Lynley went off to change an item of clothes she had brought the previous night, but turned out to be the wrong size. Around 10 am walked down to the Eaton Mall for a litle bit of last minute shopping (for the boys). Around 11.45 we started for the airport. Checked the car into the rental return, then started looking for the United check in. We were in the wrong terminal, with a little local help we caught the monorail to the right terminal and began check in. The plane left at 3.10 pm and flew to Chicago. We had about 1 1/2 hour wait before flying on to LA. When we arrived in LA we didn't know what terminal we had to go to to check in with Air New Zealand. With a little local help we caught the commuter bus (runs between terminals) and checked in. The plane was 1 1/2 hours late (so instead of a 9.30 pm departure it would be around 11 pm before we would board. To compensate Air New Zealand gave us a credit of US$10 each to have a meal (not much choice in the international sections food wise, when compared to the US domestic services offered. Did a little duty free shopping for the boys. The trip home was very good. Air New Zealand is miles ahead of United when it comes to service and planes. The Air New Zealand 747 had personal screens, with up to 80 different programmes on demand. There was more leg space and the meals and service was great (United charges for in flight food, even when you are flying 4+ hours). As I said we had a great flight, I got to watch some very recent movies (get smart, iron man, bank job etc.) Breakfast wasnt too great -only two choices left (fruit plate or ceral, which turned out to be weetbix). Arrive around 6.45 am, which meant we missed our conecting flight. However, arrived in Wellington at 9.30 am. Regan had my car to meet us and we drove back to the Wairarapa, arriving around 11.30.
The big trip is now over.
The highlights;

We drove 6790 km's. saw some wonderful sights, had some excellent B&B's to stay in. All were very friendly. If I had to rank the best B&B, then it would beVilla Beau Sejour (run by Diane and Jacques) in Levis, Quebec. We enjoyed talking with them and they did all they could to make our stay at their house smooth and enjoyable. The best sight was Halls Harbour in Nova Scotia, and whale watching.

Would recommend Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia as three provinces worth visiting. Sorry I didn't get to Cape Breton Island...may be next time.

A Day in Toronto

In the morning we walked down to the St. Lawrence market. The usual fare- seafood, meats, deli etc even a NZ shop selling paua trinkets. After we walked to the water front and caught a ferry over to Toronto Island Park. A great park, it had sandy beaches on Lake Ontario, a childrens theme park and a number of great walkways. Being a sunny warm day we spent a few hours wandering around. The afternoon was spent in the Eaton Mall. In the evening found a large discount store selling all major brand items at approximately half price. I think Lynley will visit it before we fly out tomorrow afternoon.

Talked to Karla up in London and finally found a post office. around 9pm visited downtown (Younge and Dundas street), it was all lit up like Times Square in New York.

Tonight we will begin packing our bags.

Toronto at Last

What a day. Left Levis at 9am. Needed help putting gas in the car (couldnt understand the french insructions. The aim was to hit Montreal by 11.30 am (before peak traffic) so as to navigate the hetic freeways. We managed this very successfully (it only took 45 minutes to clear Montreal).

Had lunch at Tim Hortons ( Bowl of Chilli, roll, coffee and doughnut for $5.90), Not bad for a meal. Then it was back on the 401 to Toronto. Ended up driving 60 kms with the gas light on before finding a gas station. Got to Toronto around 5.30 pm. Then we got lost in downtown. Our turn off to the hotel was closed, then the road we were on wouldnt let us turn left or right for blocks. Thanks to Lynleys good navigation and me doing an illegal U turn we found the hotel. They charge $22 per day to park your car as well.
Anyway arrived in our room around 6.30. Rested, then hit the Eaton Centre (an extremely large mall (3 or 4 levels). Had a quick look round before having mexican for dinner.
The total distance from Levis to Toronto was about 800km's, not bad for a days driving.

Woodstock to Levis

Woodstock is a quaint town, full of very large old houses (4 stories including the basement). From my observation Tim Horton's coffee shop has replaced the local cafe in towns like Woodstock as the local meeting place for the locals. We discovered that not only do they sell coffee and doughnuts, but alos soups and chillt beans.
Anyway left Woodstock early in the morning, overcast but warm. Drove scenic route to Hartland to see the large covered bridge (about 400 metres long). It was closed for repairs. Drove past Florence, home base for McCains, the multinational frozen food company. Got back on Transcanada (new 4 lane hightway0, stopped at Grand Falls to see the sights, then had a coffee and bagel at Tim Horton's. When we hit Quebec we hit the rain and very low cloud, plus very poor roads one lane and lots of traffic. Got onto highway 20 (4 lanes) and headed for Levis. Had another stop at Tim's for soup and baked beans. Got to Levis around 3.30 pm (forgot we gained an hour when we crossed into Quebec). It poured with rain during the night. Couldn't see Quebec city across the river because of cloud (the weather is associated with Ike).

Had dinner, washed some clothes then read.

Tomorrow we drive to Toronto (through Montreal- which is a scary experience).

The B&B in Levis is great, Dianne and Jacque are very welcoming and make you fell at home.

If it's Saturday it must be Woodstock

Left Sackville very early and drove 20km's into Halifax for breakfast. Had a quick walk along the wharf area and visited their Farmers market (where we has breakfast). Then it was onto the trans Canada and drove none stop for 6 hours to Woodstock New Bruinswick. We will stay here the night before heading back to Levis (Quebec) for the night. The TransCanada is a good 4 lane highway, so could cruise at 120km's per hour (thank goodness for cruise control). Woodstock is a old and little town on the Saint John river (Maine USA is just across the river, I think). Had a good walk around town looking at some incredibably old and large houses. Had a coffee and bagel at Tim Hortons (a Canadian version of Starbucks, but cheaper).

Whale watching

Left Digby very early and drove down Digby neck to catch a ferry to Long Island. Explored Long Island while waiting for the 1pm sailing to watch whales. We must have seen about 10 Humpbacks, some with calves. It was a great 3 hours in the middle of the Bay of Fundy (about 8km's off shore). We then drove, time to head to Toronto and the airplane. Drove for about 3 hours. Arrived at a town called Sackville and booked into the only motel. Everybody was going crazy at the gas stations as the price was to rise by 13c a liter at midnight (we joined in). After another sea food meal (getting to like clams/lobster/shrimps etc) we tried to have an early night.

Acadian Coast Line

Drove down to Digby. Stopped at a local vine yard (Lynley brought some wine, she had tasted the night before). Next stop was Grand Pre (Big meadow). This was an acadian village from which close to 1000 were deported to all parts of the British Colonies (Faulklands, Maryland, Louisianna etc). An excellent Park Canada national monument. Drove through some quaint towns, one had an Acadian University. Had lunch at Halls Harbour (it has to be seen to be believed), at our lobster we purchased yesterday (his name was Le Roy). Then it was on to Digby for the night. Had a brief stop at Annopolis Royal. Secured a little studio over a restaurant. Meet a canadian couple whose son had just graduated from Otago, so had a good chat with them. Tomorrow we will try and go whale watching.

Nova Scotia

Drove into NS after finding the St Tomas lobster market, brought a lobster to eat latter on. In NS we visited Oxford (the self rated capital of wild blue berries). Visted an information centre on wild blueberries and maple syrup. Had a great blue berry pie and brought some maple syrup.
Drove a "scenic highway", very poor road so I didnt see anything but the road. Stopped at a local museum in East Hast. In the local church yard were a nmber of COX gravestones. This got Lynley interested in wether they were connected.
Made Windsor in the early evening staying at a local motel. visited a local fort, the oldest blockhouse in Canada? The sight of where over 1100 acadian were housed prior to deportation in 1755. The deportation was reversed about 9 years later, allowing them to return to NS. A very sad story.
Had a great evening meal/

Hopewell Rocks

Looked around Bouctouche in the morning, then drove over to the Bay of Fundy to see the Hopewell Rocks. It was low tide so we could walk around the rocks (great structures). The tidal range in the Bay of Fundy is about 20 metres, so we were walking well below high tide mark (you have a 6 hour window of opportunity.
Got lost driving through Moncton. Tride to find Sainte Thomas lobster market, but ended up in St Anne du Kent instead, a nice farming commuity about 10 km's inland. Started to rain and blow, so had the evening reading.

Bouctouche

Spent the morning (4 hours) at the Acadian Historic Village. A very impressive display, made better as there were fewer than 20 people walking around the village (strecthed over 1.5 to 2 km's). Talked to the park people dressed in period costume. The village was laid out like a village from the early 1800's and the buildings covered the period 1780 to 1880 (after the deportation of acadians by the british). While at the village we had an acadian meal at Dugas House. From Caraguet we drove down to Bouctouche. Found a great B&B right on the beach, with a very friendly owner. He offered us 2 nights at $55 per night. We had the whole house to ourselves fro both nights. After dinner (had acadian food again) we walked the board walk at the Irving Eco centre (the walk is above a long, large sand spit called "La Dune de Bouctouche), after 1 1/2 km's the mossies etc got the better of us and we retreated.

Caraquet, New Bruinswick

Sunday, left New Carlisle in the rain. Stopped at an internationally important fossil site (early forms of fish from the carboniferious), it was an excellent 3 hours. We then drove on crossing into New Bruinswick (still wet), we then drove on to the acadian pennisular and the town of Caraquet. The first 2 B&B's we tried were booked out, however, they did find us one with a great acadian family. Had a great seafood meal. Spent the evening reading and watching tv.

Riviere-au-Renard to New Carlisle

After breakfast we hit the road. Decided to by pass Forillon National Park and headed straight to Gaspe. Gaspe along with most of the centres on the Gaspie pennisular is made up of many little villages, usually about 4 to 6 km's apart. This is confusing when you are looking for a particular B&B (Gite in French). Our first stop was Perce, a very attractive town on the coast. It has an island a few hundred metres off shore which has a stack, arch etc. It can be walked to at low tide, but was closed due to the danger of falling rocks. We walked along the coast line, looked at a piece of art, that was to represent sea birds and white caps etc. When walking out to the end of the wharf we were offered a boat trip around Bonaventure Island and Perce rock. It was a good trip (about 1 1/2 hours). The island of Bonaventure is a provincial park, it has Grey seals and thousands of gannets (largest concentration in the world?). We could have walked to the colony on the island, but due to time constraints had to push on. It then stated to rain (cyclne Hanna). Found a great B&B at New Carlisle. Mansion Hamilton. It was like staying in a museum. All the rooms were full of antiques from the 1800's. A big stone building. Wonderful night.

Sainte-Luce to Riviere-au-Renard

Friday Sept 5. Left Sainte-Luce after a very artisitic breakfast at the B&B. First stop was Centre d'art Marcel Gagon. Lynley was very impressed with the art work and poetry, especially the 80+ figures emerging from the St Lawrence (photo included here). Brought some of his work. Carried on to Matane, where we visited the fish ladder and observed some Atlantic Salmon making thier way upstream o spawn. Unlike the Pacific salmon, they don't die, but will return one or more times to spawn before they die. Had lunch from a roadside stall (similar to Tahitit, but no hot hamburger this time. Then we drove east, stopping a few time to see if we could see the Northern shore of the St. Lawrence, but couldn't. Saw one or two big freighters on the St. Lawrence. Around 5pm I had had enough driving so stopped at Riviere-au-Renard. It is a major fishing port, not very scenic. Had dinner at the hotel/motel. Then watched a little TV and read.

In the afternoon we began to see the effects of tropical storm Hanna. Cold wind blowing in of the St Lawrence and a little rain. The weather forcast isn't too hot for this weekend. All the news is about Huricane Ike and the Republican convention.

That's all folks

Catch up time

On Wednesday Sept 3, we visited Quebec City.

After a great breakfast we took the ferry across from Levis to Quebec City (took about 15 minutes). We landed at the Lower Town (Basse-Ville). From there did undertook a self guiding walking tour around the lower town. This area was first setteled in 1600's. We walked down narrow cobblestoned streets like Rue du Petit-Champlain until we arrived at the old port. We found a fruit and veg market that had all types of berries (especially blue berries).

Next we walked up through a portal in the fort walls to the upper town (Haute-Ville). Walked around the Place d'Armes then onto the Citadelle (still an active fort, used by the Canadian army), went on a guidetour which was interesting. From there we walked around and visited the Chateau Frontenac, then we walked around.

The day was very hot and sunny, so by 4 pm (6 hours of sightseeing) we decided to catch the ferry back.

In the evening we had a bistro (found out that tartare means raw), and a most delicious chocholate dipped ice cream.

Quebec city is a beautiful city and well worth visiting.

The B&B in Levis was excellent (the hosts Dianne and Jacque) were very welcoming.

On Thursday Sept 4, we left Levis and drove towards the Gaspie pennisular. The road took us through little villages all dominated by a large church.

For lunch we had a "hot hamburger", well it turned out to be based on our "peas, pie and pud",

It was a hamburger (just two meat patties) in a bun covered with gravey and peas, with a great number of fries. It was a good tasting meal.

Around 4 pm we arrived at Sante - Luce, a small town along the southern shore of the St. Lawrence. We picked a very nice B&B. Full of antiques, ate a bistro on the shore. Of local interest was the wreck of the "Empress of Ireland" it sank just off shore at 1000 lose of life, and then a few years ago a Canadian warship was scuttled to form a reef. You can dive on both sites.

Levis, Quebec.

Had a slow start today. Spent a couple of hours talking with the owners of the B&B plus another couple (they were visiting from Montreal, the woman had been in NZ on exchange in the early 90's.

While in Prescott we visited Fort Wellington (established in 1812 to defend that part of the St Lawrence River from American invasion, the yanks declared war on Canada i.e. Britian in 1812). after a few skirmishes with the Americans a british regiment attacked Odgeburgh (on the US side of the St.Lawrence) and forced the US force to retire, thereby capturing their fort. In the 1830's the fort was added to as Canada faced a revolt from within, aided by US supporters. later on the 1830 or40's it was maned as US Irish planned to capture parts of Ontario, New Brunswick etc and hold them ransom (to free Ireland from the English).

Today we had period costumed interpreters and witnessed a firing of the rifle of the day.

After leaving Prescott I finally saw a bulk carrier on the St. Lawrence.

From Prescott it was on to Quebec. We headed for Levis, across the river from Quebec City. What a journey. We got gridlocked trying to by pass Montreal. Spent well over an hour trying to get through the tunnel under the St. Lawrence. Due to a smash or something all 3 lanes were blocked. So many big rigs etc. Mind you their freeways leave a lot to be desired. You have 6 lanes (3 to your left and 3 to your right joining your 3 lanes. The signage left a lot to be desired. what was meant to be a 1 hour by pass of Montreal took well over 2 hours.

Still we got through and arrived in Levis early in the evening. At dusk looking across to Quebec city all lit up was a great sight.

The town/city of Levis is very european, hard to believe one is in Canada. The B&B is well plaved on a terrace looking straight across to old Quebec City. We will take a ferry across tomorrow morning.

Prescott, Ontario

Monday September 1st.

Dropped Karla off at her flat (apartment), sorry to be leaving her behind. We then hit the 401 for some serious driving, all the way East to Prescott, a little town on the St Lawrence. The drive actually only took 5 - 6 hours as we could maintain 120km's per hour all the way.

Prescott is a lovely lttle town that has seen better days. In it's hay-day it was a major port for goods being shipped in and out of the great lakes. The port was very close to set of rapids, so the goods of the day had to be transferred. Later on it was a factory town for US industry. However, that stopped with the US/Canada free trade agreement. Now it is a small town servicing the local area and relying on Tourism. We had a paddle in the St Lawrence and good walk around the town. Had an evening meal at the local pub (owened by community shareholders), then its was back to the B&B for a hot tube experience under the stars. The B&B is called :Our stone cottage", would recommend it.