The Long trek south

Left Diamond Springs around 10 am and headed to Sacramento and this shopping mall. Only took 1 hour that to GPS. Very large mall. But seen one you have seen them all. Found what was requested. Had a quick look in Macey's and Nordstrum before hitting the interstate again. About 2 hours to San Francisco International airport. Hit very heavy traffic around Oakland, the beginning of the commuter rush (just before 3 pm). Then the gas light came on (with 35 minutes driving to the airport). Got of the freeway and put a few dollars of gas in the car (we had paid for a tank of gas when we picked up our rental in SFO) so was determined to take it back empty.

Once again thanks to GPS we got back on the freeway with little problems. On the Bay Bridge it was bumper to bumper. However once we moved over to 101 things moved a little easier.

Arrived at the Rental car centre just on 4 pm. Caught the air train to the airport and checked in with American Airlines (AA). Now had 3 odd hours to kill.

The AA departure lounges and terminal was excellent. Not crowded and with lots of shops and food outlets. The terminal is very traveller friendly. Plenty of charging stations, desks to work on and great swivel chairs to relax in.

The flight down to LAX was not crowded (well apart from Business class). We both had a row to ourselves. So, we had a great view of San Francisco and Los Angles. The flight was surprisingly fast-about 45 minutes.

The AA terminal in LAX was the exact opposite to SFO-- very crowded, very few shops (including one very small and poorly stocked duty free store).

The flight back to Auckland was full-a mixture of US folks and New Zealanders (most of who seemed to be returning after watching the All Black lose to Ireland in Chicago.

There was also some very, very large people, who couldn't fit into their seats, so took up a large portion of the aisle as well.

Was a good flight-binged on movies and The Big Bang Theory.

My only complaint is -being at the back section of the plane you don't get to get your first choice of evening meal. You get just what ever has been rejected by those in the forward sections. Hence, the evening meal was not very nice. As was the mid flight snack-took two bites and gave it back.

The flight left at 11.15 pm and the outside temperature was 25 degrees C. Incredible climate in LA.

Flight time was a little over 12 hours-so settled back and watched movies.

Arrival, immigration and customs on arrival was a breeze. Straight through. 

Walked over to the domestic terminal and waited for our 1.35 pm flight. The domestic terminal left little to be desired when compared to San Francisco domestic terminal and those prices-back in expensive NZ now.

Finally arrived back in Greytown around 5.30 pm-overcast, wet and cool. The grass is up to my ankles, so will be mowing the lawns at least twice this week.

She who can not be named headed of to the cat motel to pick up Boris-the magnificent.

Was in bed very early. Buggered/knickers.

That is it folks - another road trip done. Will have to work how many miles we drove. I figure it will be around 3000 miles all up.

Election Day- Decision Day for the USA

The folks we were staying with are a little nervous today. They are rooting for Hillary.

Lovely sunny day, temperatures in the mid to high 60's. Went for a ride (on Stan's golf cart) around the lake. Good to spend time with Stan and June again.

Went out for a lunch/dinner at their favourite Mexican resturant. Only seems fitting that on our last full day in the US that we end with a Mexican meal.

After we drove through the historic section of Placerville. Looks like a town worth exploring. In the 1850's this was called 'Hang town' for the obvious reason. While driving through Placerville we noticed a mannequin hanging from a gallows on the side of one of the buildings.

Had to at the TV at 4 pm (local time) which is 7 pm on the East Coast. Needless to say from 5pm onwards things got gloomier and gloomier. Not what our hosts wanted.

Around 9 pm, I gave up a quit. Went and started packing away the things Regan had had shipped to Stan's place. Hopefully we won't have to buy another bag.

Our daughter asked via whatsapp for a few little items. After consulting Ma Google we found a shop stocking her makeup request in Sacramento (Aden Mall, I believe). Guess that will be our first stop tomorrow enroute to the airport.

With the election all but wrapped up, I feel very sorry for all those who voted for Hillary. Hard to Belive that she got the majority of the populous vote, but their first past the post state by state (the electoral college votes) she lost. She is only the second presidential candidate in history to carry the majority vote but loose.  I believe it is time the people of the US seriously looked at proportional representation or something similar.

However, the people have spoken. I only hope that Trump and the Republicans can deliver what they promised. Personally I doubt it. It could be a very rough 4 years for the good folk of the US.

Tomorrow we are off back to little ole New Zealand.

Diamond Springs

Left Yosemite -half Dome village just after 9 am and drove to Mariposa. A great drive along the Merced River. Narrow but scenic.

Refuelled in Mariposa and headed for Sonora (had initially put Sonoma in the GPS and it had us heading north west -150 odd miles to travel...discovered this just in time. Followed Rte 49. Stopped in Sonora for coffee and good look around. Interesting little "old mining town".

Continued on 49 to Angel Camp (another small mining town). When we drove through on Friday, it was a very busy, hectic little town. However, today, Monday it was quiet. Almost all the shops were closed. Read a few articles about Mark Twain, who was a reporter in the county and he wrote a story about the jumping frogs of??? County. You need to Google this.

On 49 again to Jackson-where we re-visited the Cost less supermarket. Hugh, but friendly staff (helped us find the items we were looking for.).

Arrived at Diamond Springs around 3 pm.

Great to catch up with Stan and June again. One of Regan's parcels had arrived, so unpacked it to figure out how we were going to pack it for the trip back to NZ.

Spent the afternoon and evening catching up on family comings and goings.

Whatsapp is a great way to communicate with our kids back in NZ. I noticed a few more orders are coming in from those who stay in contact with us using this app. Evan and Rebecca are currently walking the Milford Track in NZ. Hope they aren't up to their necks in rain and sandflies. 

Spent the evening watching the democratic rally -with Bon Jovi, Bruce "the boss' Springstein. Followed by Bill Clinton, Michelle Obama, Barak Obama and finally Hillary herself. Michelle and Barak are great speakers-their speeches were very moving (talked about what they achieved and how lucky they were to have 8 years in the Whitehouse etc. Real same Barak can't stand again. he is truely inspiring.

Stan and June are democrats, so tomorrow we will spend Election Day with them. Looking forward to this event.  

Day 2 in Yosemite

Slower start today, for two reasons. A little stiff in the legs and daylight saving ended over night.

After breakfast (pancakes Yea), we caught a shuttle back to Mirror lake trail. The day is warm but overcast. Decided to walk the 5 mile loop up past Mirroe lake to the Tulomene Meadows trail head (15.6 miles one way to the meadow). Can't help to think of bears and Cougars when you are walking by yourself on the trail. At the head of the trail we crossed the Tenya River and headed back down. A very good stroll in the woods.

Stopped again at the trees that appear to be hacked at and in some cases felled by an animal with large front teeth, possibly a beaver (see image in yesterday's thoughts). But it appears from all the information we have come across that Beavers don't live in Yosemite. Oh, well will make a good story any way.

At this point we decided we needed to visit the visitor centre, museum and art gallery (well 'she who can not be named wanted to visit the latter). Information centre had some very good dioramas and information on the formation of Yosemite- Granite, exposed by erosion and uplift. The granite looks to me as to be more a grandiorite little or no phelspars present, glaciated causing 'U' shaped valleys and hanging valleys (where the waterfalls are currently located. The granite is exfoliating like onion rings so makes this an ideal rock climbing venue.

The museum was orientated more to the original Indian inhabitants - Miwok and Piaute. When the 49ers (gold miners) arrived they eliminated 90% of the local people. Either shot them or starved them to death. A case of genocide in my opinion. Shameful action. Outside the museum was a Miwok village (they used to have ceremonial dances for the tourists in the 1920-1950 period. Interesting construction-all bark. The Indians lived on trout and Black Oak acorns-made a type of flour that they used for biscuits etc. They used 'red' hot stones placed in a water tight woven basket to cook this flour meal. The village also had a sweat box, where the males cleansed themselves before going hunting for mule deer or rabbit. The name Yosemite is a rough take on a Miwok phrase that meant "some of them are killers", interesting observation. I wonder whether they were referring to the Piaute or Europeans.

Like Yellowstone, the army protected the national park (established around 1890) until the park rangers were created. The Calvary unit here were buffalo soldiers - African Americans who had served in the Union army during the civil war.

The rest of the afternoon was spent walking through the meadows, now much smaller in size (because the early European settlers had drained the wetlands so as to graze diary cows and cattle (to serve to the early tourists). This draining allowed the pines to invade and take over the meadows. Thankfully, the national park is trying to rectify things. They have now board walks and a lot of the meadows are off limits as they are undertaking restorative work.

Visited the chapel (where you can get married), even witnessed a young couple having their wedding photo's taken on one of the boardwalks. Two weddings in two days- need to suggest this to our own children. Great setting.

Got back to our little hotel room around 4.30 pm. Rested, then checked out the pizza deck...no que so that's what we did.

A large number of school groups were in the eating area, all different ages, but well behaved. What a great place to do some teaching-geography, environmental studies etc.

Once again early to bed. Tomorrow we leave and head about 3 hours drive north of here to visit Stan and June.

Waterfalls, waterfalls and more waterfalls

Nice sunny day. A heavy breakfast of hash browns, bacon, scambled eggs coffee and toast and we were off. Took the shuttle to the beginning of Vernal fall. On the trip we ran into a coyote, just ambling down the road. Nice start to the day.

Initially we were only going to the lower viewing point (which is designated as easy). Well, it was steep and had us both blowing. We pushed on from the bridge and climbed about 1/3rd of the way to the top of the falls. It got steeper and wet,so we retreated.

Yours truely posing!!

Mirror lake

From here we walked a further mile around to Mirror lake. This was a good walk of around 2 miles. Not really a lake more like a small pool.

Had a late lunch outside the visitor centre, in the sun. Very nice. From here we caught a shuttle to Yosemite Falls. We did the walk to the lower falls. Yosemite falls are 5th tallest falls in the world (NZ's Sutherlad falls are 9th). 

For the rest of the afternoon we walked in the meadows, where we saw mule deer, including 2 stags just sitting in the grass.

Beaver action? At Yosemite?

The meadows

Apart from warnings about bears, there were also warnings about mountain lions/Cougars. Apparently they come down after the mule deer.

Got back to our digs around 4.30 pm. 7 hours mostly walking uphill and down dale. Feet and thighs/legs were hurting. Fell asleep almost immediately.

Went back to the food court earlier than the previous night, not so crowded. On the return bus ride the driver turned out the lights and pointed out the rock climbers up on one of the granite cliff faces. Their personal headlights reminded me of glow worms. All at different heights above the valley floor. Quite spectacular.

Then entertained ourselves in our room.

That's all folks.

Carson City to Yosemite National Park

Early start today. Found out that Tioga Pass ( the pass that allows one to travel from the eastern side over the top to Yosemite ) was closed. So will have to take either Rte 50 or 88.

After the usual hotels breakfast we checked out and headed to the Nevada State Museum (which opens at 8.30 am. We got there at 8.45-they had to unlock the doors to let us in. Had a good collection on view. In particular I liked their 'Ghost Towns' display. Had material and information on the Native Americans but, did not touch on the conflicts when the Europeans arrived in the area, which was disappointing.

Left Carson City around 10..30 am. Decided to take Rte 88 (via Carson Pass), however, our GPS unit had other ideas and kept telling us to turn around.

From the Nevada side it is a steep ascent to the pass. The road was in good condition with little traffic. Soon we were above the snow line. Noticed a few of the lakes were starting to freeze over. The usual fishermen were to be seen around a few of the larger lakes.

The descent was longer and with more curves. There was about 5 miles of roadworks to contend with, so spent 10+ minutes waiting.

Just outside Jackson, decided I needed a break from driving. Found a little deli and had a great BLT for lunch.

Stopped at a very large supermarket in Jackson -Costless. Fantastic selection. Did a little shopping for Yosemite.

On the way to Yosemite we passed through 2 little towns which seem well worth further investigation- Angel Camp and Sonoma. Both had Victorian buildings that looked like they did the the 1880's.

Finally arrived at the Yosemite Valley around 4pm. Lots of road works, with detours and closed roads to contend with.

What amazes me is the $80 annual pass still worked. So we got into Yellowstone and Yosemite free. That was a great investment n November 2015.

After a little driving around we found the check in building. Got that sorted and moved in. The room is small. No TV or radio and no frig. And, they charge $167 per night. There are only 18 of these hotel rooms. The remainder here at Half Dome Village are cabins or canvas cabins (both heated and non-heated) where you have to walk to use the bathroom or shower. Hence the price.

Apparently there are plenty of black bears around here, so had to empty the car (so they wouldn't be tempted to break in) and store everything in a container in our room. If you have a tented cabin there are bear lockers outside, which you must use.

We do have wifi but need to be in the communal building to access it.

Got settled and went exploring. The only food outlet here in the afternoon and evening is the pizza patio which by judging by the length of the que were doing a roaring trade. There is coffee corner which serves breakfast from 7 am to 10 am every morning.

With the bus stop just outside our room we decided to head to the food court (which closes at 7 pm) over at Yosemite Valley lodge. On the ride over, a woman hoped on and was telling everyone about a bear encounter she had just had coming down the track to catch the bus.

The food court was chaotic -a mass of humanity queuing to buy and then eat an evening meal. Needless to say it was not a memorable meal. But the experience was priceless, it reminded me of lunch time at the uni cafe, but 4 fold.

Bused back and prepared for tomorrow's hikes.

Carson City, Nevada

Awoke to a good frost on the car. Our car looked miniature compared to the monsters that were parked around it. One in particular was the biggest pick up I have ever seen- it was a monster and from Alberta.

No breakfast at the motel, so based on TripAdvisor we made a beeline to 'The Griddle". Had a great hot cake breakfast with hash browns (the first on this trip). The waitress tried to explain to me the difference between a hotcake and pancake- I didn't get it.

Next on the days adventure was a visit to the Humbolt Museum. Had a good visit, they had a very good collection of early vehicles and buggies. Got talking to one of the paid employees and once he knew I was involved with Cobblestones, he spent time with us. He open one of their three old buildings (a grain shop with the living quarters out the back). It had a wheelchair similar to the one we have in Cobblestones. We talked shop for a while. I would recommend this little museum.

Hit the road towards Carson City. On the way we stopped of to look at Lovelock (impressive court house but little else) and Fallon, where I found a Republican office. Went in to see if could secure one of those Make America Great Again baseball huts. Nothing, nada, infact one one was manning the office. Downtown historic part of town was non-descript -no cafe's etc.

So, we resorted to what we did last year in Fallon- hit the Walmart and had a Macca (God forbid). Did a quick look around-big on Christmas already. Christmas trees all around, why, even a Christmas shop. And people were buying decorations already. Checked out travel bags for Regans goodies, the called it quits and hit the road.

1 hour later we were in Crarson City and our hotel. Have a nice room on the 3rd floor. They offer cookies and wine between 4 pm and 6pm. She who cannot be named had one of each.

Had a good walk around town, saw the Governor's mansion, the state legislative chamber etc. Including a statue of Kit Carson. 

Carson city has a significant number of Victorian houses just a street or two back from Carson Blvd. We walked around having a good look. She who cannot be named loved kicking all the fallen leaves. She figured if she did that to all the leaves raked up out the capital building she would be arrested. As we walked around the Nevada Supreme Court we noticed workers putting up the coloured lights for Christmas.....and it is only November 3rd!!!!!

Talked to the information personal and was advised that the Toiga Pass to Yosemite is closed. So it will be a long drive to the Caliornian side to get there.

Will need to do extra planning tonight.

He recommended a Thai resturant - The Basil. Meant to be in the top 10 resturants in the state.... So we did. It was great. Highly recommend it. 

So, it looks like an early start tomorrow. We want to look at the State Museum before we hit the road. Thankfully it opens at 8.30 am.

So that's it folks.

Real Cowboys don't eat from the Salad Bar

I will put some context around this observation later.

The Oregon Trail Motel as mentioned is AA 1960/70 model. Offered a continental breakfast, which you had to take back to your room to eat. Offered the usual fare, oats, toast/jam and coffee or tea. While walking over to get our breakfast, we got talking to a fellow guest (who was walking her corgi), she mentioned how she was going to spend the day at one of the local hot springs. We got to talking and remembered going to one with Tim in 1980. A quick Google search, we found two hot springs just 10 miles away (Mircle and Banbury). A quick stop at a dollar store to buy towels and off we went.

Spent a very relaxing 45 minutes in the hot springs (located next to the Snake River). We shared the pool with a group of Aqua yoga's - about 5 women and one guy. Seemed to be an ideal way to keep yourself flexible. Got to talking to the guy after. He is a farmer just outside of Buhl. He has a Maori shearer leave his RV with him while he returns to NZ for the summer. Then this shearer leaves NZ in May to go shearing in England before hitting the US, where he picks up his RV and does the rounds shearing. He has been leaving his RV with this farmer for the past 6 years.

After this great start to the day we hit the road to Wells, Nevada. 

We stopped at Wells for lunch. Nice, small enough for us, but very expensive. We did drive down to downtown Wells looking for a local resturant. No go. Wells is a ghost town. It seemed like all the businesses were shut down. All retail and commercial activity now centres around the interstate exchange. Wells is a place to join an interstate to either Reno or Salt Lake City.

So, we hit the road, cruising at 80 mph. 

We passed lots of mineral mining activities. Interstate driving is not for the faint heart, why, even the 18 wheelers were driving at 75 mph. Some of the trucks had 3, not 2 trailers attached. Looked very impressive.

Made Winnemucca around 4 pm. Checked into our motel (another 1960/70 model). The room was very large and spacious.

Had a walk around to check out the local environment and eating options for the night.

We settled on the Winnemmucca Inn and Casino. A nice meal, but the resturant was full of Cowboys and girls. The men were wearing 10 gallon hats (they don't take them off inside), very large brimmed hats, bandanas and sneakers (go figure). The cowgirls wore baseball hats, cowboy boots with Spurs.

From my observation the women went to the salad bar but the big hats ate steak. A real interesting evening. These 4 + hours of driving are starting to become a drag (needed Regan to share the load).

The days was sunny and warm. Got up to 60 degrees F in the afternoon.

So another day down and closer to Yosemite

Back to sunny and warm weather

Awoke to light snow. Left West Yellowstone and headed out of the mountains to the plains.

But before the travel log continues, let me reflect on Halloween in West Yellowstone - what Halloween -it didn't eventuate. With 80% of the town closed for winter -there was no body on the streets, well apart from confused tourists looking for somewhere to eat. The only people or children I saw in costum were 2 kids and the check out girl at the local supermarket. I was quite looking forward to seeing all the glitz and glamour, but, to no avail.

As we left West Yellowstone the temperature was hovering around freezing point. For the next 45 minutes we drove through conifer forests (can't recall the name of the trees). Around Idaho Falls we hit open grassland and the temperature settled around 7 degrees C. Dry roads, so driving was easy. 

At Idaho Falls we hit the first of 3 interstates we will use today. At the intersection there was major road works in progress, hence, we missed the ramp...thank goodness for GPS, it re-routed us no problems. So, we didn't become lost and confused in Idaho Falls.

A little way down the interstate we stopped at a rest area-of geologic significance- pahoehoe lave (that is ropy lava). Went for a walk through it, saw a couple of collapsed lava tubes.

Arrived at Twin Falls around 2.30 in the afternoon. We left the interstate at the Hansen/Kimberely exit and went looking for the Coiner Ranch (I had met Tim in Argentina in 1976, and had stayed and did odd jobs at his father ranch around August/September that year). What was a two lane highway is now a 4 lane highway, what was once open farmland is housing and commercial buildings. Couldn't recognise the Coiner homestead or Tim's house. How time marches on, must remember that was a lifetime ago.

Stopped in Historic downtown Twin Falls-what was once bustling with people and businesses was deserted and little to see. did find a good coffee shop with interesting bench counters (all 1 cent coins set in a clear resin. I was reminded yet again my experiences were a lifetime ago.

Drove on to Buhl (our stop for the night). We had lived here for 3 or 4 months in 1980. Walked around. He only two things that were the same was the supermarket (which is very small and run down) and the bank (where we cashed our pay cheques). Walked over to where we thought our upstairs apartment was- nothing all pulled down. Walked past what was an apartment building (where Les the mort man lived), that is now a senior citizens centre. Why even the little coffee shop where the farmers met to spend time was gone. What has remained is the smell and the large grain silos surrounding the wee town. By smell I mean fish feed type of smell. This wee town is the centre of the commercial trout farming industry, all centred down in the Snake river canyon. They process the fish here in Buhl. We worked for Clear Springs Trout company down in the canyon. Really can't remember much else about Buhl as we got picked up every morning in the dark and were dropped back at our wee apartment in the dark. On weekends we worked down at the farm (we were young and travelling so need the money). We did spend time in Twin Falls (where there was a K Mart-long since gone).

On reflection, Twin Falls -about 6 miles away has possibly dealt to commercial enterprises in Buhl, and for Twin Falls, all the retail shops have migrated out to the Interstate, where all the accommodation is now located.

Buhl has one interesting fact. For such a small town it has 4 Mexican food restaurants (one so also a drive in outlet as well). We ate at Juanita's- great food, and very cheap. The owner gave me a bottle of Mexican sangria (on the house) when I told him how much I disliked coke from a tap. Sangria is soft drink in Mexico.

Our motel is definitely 1960/70 era. Rick our host has a uncanny resemblance to Smith (the guy who skipped NZ to Brazil, but now back in a NZ prison.

Sorry no photo's it was just 4+ hours of driving.

Day 2 - North Loop of the park

The first part of the day was 'ground hog day', except the temperature was hovering around 32 to 34 degrees F-32 degrees is 0 degrees C).

Had a grumpy ranger at the entrance, I asked what the weather expected was...she just answere 'I don't know I'm stuck in this booth". Great start.

We decided to head straight to Mammoth Hot Springs. Along the way we saw hearts of elk and buffalo. Just outside Mannoth we stopped at the thermal terraces- very impressive. More impressive than I expected. Spent a good bit of time walking around the boardwalks looking at the different terraces (with sinter and travertine deposits (Travertine are deposits of calcite (limestone deep beneath the surface is dissolved by the thermal water (and a weak sulphuric acid), then as the water evaporates on the surface the travertine is deposited.

 

Great model posing in front of a terrace.

Walking around the different silica terraces was a 'wee' struggle -there was a strong cold wind and plenty of snow flurries to content with. I need a coffee. Almost brought a black felt cowboy hat at the general store, in the end said 'no', when would I wear it. Also saw a 1970's VW camper charging trough the little town- a great sight.

Then it was 5 minutes down the road to Mammoth Hot Springs. This little township started life as an Army base. The US Army in the late 1880's were sent to sort out the poachers and miners, and to protect the national park. From them evolved the Park Rangers and their military uniforms. Great visitor centre, and most of the officer houses are still there and in use. More amazing was the number of elk grazing their lawns.

After a picnic lunch (it had stopped snowing and the sun was out, so we had our home made lunch (meat and a freshly baked French loaf (with a little cheese) and freshly purchased hot drinks (there was a general store open here).

Then it was back on the road again, heading to Tower Fall.

Our 'wee' car with the columnar basalt deposits in the background.

At this point of time it was close to 4.30 pm so, we decided to head back to West Yellowstone.

On the drive back we hit a small snow blizzard-snow flurries driven by very strong winds.

A shot through the front windscreen.

Stopped at Norris geyser field. Had a good walk around both the upper and lower boardwalks. By now there was no snow, sunny and just under 40 degrees F.

An example of the thermal pools at Norris.

On the drive back we saw herds of bison and elk grazing on the river flats. We drove a riverside loop and stumbled across a 3 legged elk, grazing beside the road.

Got back to our accommodation. Time to do a few household chores.

All 3 restaurants that were open last night are all closed. So we found a little bar/pizza parlour-that was tea for the night.

Tomorrow we leave the mountains and drop down to the high plains of Idaho. We are staying the night in Buhl, Idaho - a step back in time for us, as we lived there for 4 months in 1980 (September to December 26th).

Yellowstone has lived up to its reputation. A great place to visit, especially this time of the year. Very few cars to contend with. Yesterday we talked to a couple fro, Bozeman. They said in the height of summer you wait for up to an hour to get access to the features, with long lines of traffic. They also said it is not unusual to see bison standing in the hot pools during the height of winter. WE did see fresh dung and hoof prints around a number of the hot pools.

Sorry to say we saw no bears or wolves in the wild.

2 Days to explore Yellowstone National Park

Day 1 -The lower Loop taking in the upper, middle and lower thermal areas.

Good solid breakfast. Hit local supermarket to get lunch (including a great looking donut0. Then on to the visitor centre to check what roads were open.  Only one is currently closed - between Canyon Village and Tower Falls. Weather is cool (42 degree's F) with a hint of rain.

The annual National Park pass worked a treat. What a good investment (cost $80 (US) last year and it is still good.

On the drive from the West Entrance to Madison saw our first bull elk. Then a little further down the road saw our first herd of Bison. WE spent 2 hours stopping and walking among many different geysers, mud pools, fumaroles etc. Had to stop once or twice for bison (they just walk along the road at a very casual rate). The photo's below cover most of what we saw over those 2+ hours.

Silica rich hot pools

All with different coloured heat tolerant bacteria living in them.

This one was just strolling down the middle of the road.

The last stop was the lower basin and Old Faithful. Here there is an excellent visitor centre/education centre. Bathrooms!!! Yeh. Every where else was closed for winter.

Yellowstone is a super volcano. It currently sits over a plume of magma or hotspot (like Hawaii). This hotspot accounts for all the volcanic depositions in Oregen and Idaho.

WE discovered that 'Old Faithfil' was due to fountain. (Geyser to spout0 around 1.45 pm. So we waited. Then the rain set in and it rained. Around 2 pm Old Faithful lived up to its name and it happened.

Here is proof!

Ate our lunch in the car (nothing to write home about except the donut).

From here it was over Craig Pass (usually closed in early November) and on to West Thumb ( a lake in a caldera that is still warmed by magma- Yellowstone Lake). Apparently where the Yellowstone river drains from the lake is a very good spot for fishing. Which reminds our drive from the West entrance and Madison were saw numerous anglers in the Madison river trying their luck).

The rain by now was pretty steady, so we headed  Yellowstone Grand Canyon and water falls.

The Upper Falls in Yellowstone Canyon.

The Yellowstone river has cut a deep and long valley through rhyolite deposits and tuff. Very impressive.

By now it was close to 5 pm so we headed back to West Yellowstone and a rest.

Very good meal tonight, very European bistro (which I ruined by having a burger-which now I wish I hadn't.

Steady rain, so that a wrap.

Have decided that at least 80% of West Yellowstone is closed for the winter.

Winter is coming

Awoke this morning to a very heavy frost. Had to use an ice scratcher to remove the ice from the front windscreen.

Last nights hotel was up to the usual high standard. Good breakfast, fill the car with gas and then onto I-90 E again. Traffic was pretty light (still a large number of 18 wheelers to contend with. In Montana the speed limit for cars is 80 mph. I cruised at 75 and barley kept in front of the trucks.

The road cut through plains where cattle farming seems to be the major agriculture practise, did see some sheep. Detoured into Anaconda (now a small town) which last century was a major mining town, however, it closed in the 1980's. There were very large tailings on the paddock around the mine. Very black in colour. After a coffee in Anaconda back onto I-90 E. Finally left I-90 at Balgrade and dropped down to West Yellowstone and the Stage Coach Inn. 

They gave us an enormous room, simply stunning.

West Yellowstone, my guess is that 75% of the businesses have closed for the winter. I believe there main income is from the tourists who visit Yellowstone National Park which is right next door. 

Went for a walk to the Park information centre-it was closed. We continued on to the Grizzly and Wold discovery centre. This is a not-for-profit organisation. Saw a number of wolves, one in particular was very large. The Bears were all grizzles. They were great to watch. They also had birds of prey on show- mainly bald eagles, golden eagles and peregrine falcon.

Sorry no photo's today, the camera person was on strike. Finding a place to eat on smaller roads is very difficult. They have deli's usually attached to a casino (legal to have casino's in Montana with restricted beating limits. We stopped at one such establishment- just blew us away. The food was horrible.

Tomorrow weather permitting we will venture into Yellowstone National Park.

A little about our accommodation -The stage coach inn.

Great lobby, big staircase leading up stairs- a big gas fire (pretending to be a log fire) and lots of stuffed animals-all from the area. Will include a picture latter on. The building itself was built between 1946 and 1948. It is a unique western Swiss design (chalet). It has a sauna, hot water pool etc. Haven't tried them out yet. Would recommend this place.

What a difference a day makes.....

After a good nights sleep at Inn America , awoke to a clear possibly sunny day, but it was cool. She who should not be named had checked out this hotel on TripAdvisor. Doesn't have a good rating.

Went down to the now mandatory breakfast to find there was only 3 tables in a very small crowded breakfast area. Two of the tables was taken up with one family of 6 kids (even their parents were standing to eat). Decided to grab our breakfast and eat in our room.

Checked out, and gassed up (price of gas here was $2.45 per gallon. So cheap. Half a tank of gas cost around $15. Wow.

Drove to the historic part of town. Very quiet traffic wise. Parked at the library and walked down to the 5th post (an historic marker where in the late 1800's a family ran a ferry across the Clearwater. On a usual day of business he made US$250/ day. That would make him very wealthy in the late 1800's.

We walked along the levee (stop bank) that protects Lewistown from the lake that was formed when they constructed a dam. The level rose 35 metres, so hence the levee. There are a number of dams and locks from this point down stream. It allows large ships to come this far inland (Lewiston/Clarkson has to be one of most inland port in the US. Walked along the levee to the Lewis and Clark centre. It overlooks the confluence of the Snake and Clearwater rivers. It is also marks the spot where they and their discovery army camped (before heading west into Washington State and the west coast.

Walked back to the Nez Perce County Museum, spent close to an hour looking at their exhibits. It is a very crowded (collection wise) but informative. Told the usual tale of European deception and eventual harm to the local Indian tribes (they are now called the Nez Perce, they however had another name for themselves. Usual story, move to a reservation or face the wrath of the US Army. Initially the locals won a numbe of battles, but eventually were wore down and subdued. The last remaining bands that wouldn't submit were trapped 40 miles from the Canadian border (where they were going to seek shelter). The Chiefs and other significant Warriors were arrested and shipped back east to Fort Leavenworth. There is more to the story, but you can Google it. Needles to say the most important chief was Chief Joseph (both Snr and Jnr). The Europeans felt very intimidated by Joseph Jnr, he was tall, well built and bowed to no one.

 The bridge to Clarkson across the Snake.

River boat (like the steam boats of the Mississippi) about to dock at Clarkson pier.

Small square in historic Lewiston. The Idaho Hotel once stood here-burnt down some time ago.

From the museum we walked around town....very quiet, we were the only people on the street. Found the Democratic HQ and discussed whether we would go volunteer and man the phone lines for them... No, not our election.

Time to quite Lewiston. Followed Rte 12, which is known as the Lewis and Clark NW trail. For about 120 miles we followed the Clearwater River, before turning away to climb to the LoLo summit (Bitterroot Mountains), over the other side lay Missoula, Montana (a change in time zones-Mountain time).

The drive beside the river was excellent, light traffic, a few trucks, but could maintain 55 to 60 mph. The river was very full of fishermen. Some in waders up to their waist, others in motor boats and still others in oar paddled boats- all fishing for steelhead fish ( a rainbow trout that spends a few years in the ocean before returning to spawn etc. 

 Clearwater River.

The day was sunny and clear with a temp hovering around 14 degrees C. We passed through two Indian reservations with a town in each- Kamiah (where we lunched) and Kooskia. 

Halloween in Kamiah.

Also past a larger town called Orofino (fine gold), didn't stop as it was across the river. Stopped at the LoLo summit at a visitors centre. Very informative. Should mention we noticed a significant number of evergreen trees (pines or spruce or???) were all very golden brown. We assumed that indicated a dieting off. Forgot to ask the rangers at the LoLo summit centre.

Must be a bit volcanic around here as we came across the LoLo hot springs (looked pretty run down). From the summit we headed to LoLo (had to watch out for moose and elk -just saw one elk). What I did notice was the posted speed limits. 70 mph(daytime) and 65 mph (night) and on a normal NZ type road. We counted at least 7 little white crosses on the side of the road.

Found our hotel for the night (EconoLodge), checked in and relaxed. Evening meal at an Irish pub (had a good plate of bangers and mash) followed by a local light beer.

Another long driving day

Today we will have to drive across the state of Washington.

Left Mark and Jeannie's in Olympia around 8.45 am. Found I-5 with Marks expertise. Travelled north on I-5. Changed onto Rte 18 to get to I-90 East. Lots of trucks but travel was relatively quick. On I-90 climbed over the Cascade Range (Snoqualmie Pass, where there were ski fields just of the interstate. Steep grades, 3 or 4 lanes, so no problem.

Dropping down on the other side of the Cascades the landscape changed to open grasslands and cattle farming. What was noticeable was the increased number of Trump/Pence signs on people's property (the east coast of Tacoma, Olympia and Seattle are dominantly democratic). The part of Washington (being on the rain shadow side of the Cascades) is normally dry. Today it rained, and rained and rained.

Got of I-90 at a small place called Vantage- nothing to write home about, a gas station, closed buildings and a small resturant. So we stopped for fuel and food. Ok but nothing to right home about.

Got onto Rte 26 (the Pulosa scenic byway. Passed through a few vineyards and orchards (especially around Royal City and Orthello. The road was straight with light traffic. Had to watch the road because of the indentations made by heavy traffics were filled with water and there was the possibility of Aqua planning (especially when you are travelling at 60 mph.

The landscape was one of gentle rolling hills. All used to grow alpha or wheat. No fences, but just the stubble left. Around Orthello we passed a very large lot farm (where beef cattle are crowded in with no grass to graze, feed hay etc. as we got closer to Lewiston the landscape changed. Now we were driving through columnar basalt (from one of the basalt flood episodes which occurred a few million of years ago (I remember teaching this at St George's in Vancouver).

Passed through a little town called Colfax (in a gully among the basalt cliffs). Changed onto Rte 195 outside Colfax. Now we're headed to Lewiston. The  descent into Lewiston was spect ulnar. We dropped from the plateau (about 700 metres above the Clearwater river. The road was steep-7% grade. You could smell the large trucks brakes. 

Thank goodness for GPS. We found our hotel easily -Inn America. Checked in, then I went for a small walk (needed after all that driving). A few fast food stores were closed and looked abandoned. Found a supermarket with an TM - they only charged 1% commission -so took out a few $$$.

In the evening we drove up Lewiston's resturant alley looking for a particular resturant. No, didn't find it. Settled on Appleby's -which turned out to be a very good choice.

Driving at night, in the rain, and in a strange town and country is very trying. Had to concentrate very hard at all times.

Tomorrow we will spend most of the morning exploring Lewiston then head east to Missoula, Montana.

A little about Lewiston. It plus its sister town Clarkson is located on confluence of the Clearwater river and the Snake River. Clarkson is located just across the snake river. Both town are named after Lewis and Clark, who discovered the Pacific Ocean in 1805. Well they a troop of volunteers travelled overland from the Mississipi river area (already settled by Europeans to explore and find routes to the West Coast. I think their return trip took 500 days. When they reached the North Pacific at the mouth of the Columbia river they built a fort, Fort Clapsop (I think that it is the spelling). Tomorrow we will follow their route up to LoLo pass (over the Bitterroot Mts). It is called the North West trail. It involves the Nez Pece tribe as well.

So that's it for now.

Rainy Day blues

Awoke to very wet dark day. A good day to sit around and catch up on writing this blog plus downloading the photo's from Evan's camera (mind you he was not too impressed-sent me some very critical messages via snapchat. We are trying Evan, promise).

Drove somewhere towards Tacoma for a pita lunch, then it was off to the Museum of Glass to seen a maestro from Venice (that little island you visited Evan). Had a very informative afternoon ( I even feel asleep watch a movie on the process- riveting Huh!!!).

Drove back to Olympia the long way. Mark and Jeannie's were each using Apple maps and didn't believe what directions they were giving. Needless to say when it comes to human instinct and knowledge verses GPS and maps, the latter wins hands down. Long, but fun. Got to see some very wealthy homes and a very large military base (army and airforce combined.

Eat at home, then I used Marks broadband connection to watch the 4th one day highlights and well as the AB's v's Aussies.

Time to pack as we are back on the road tomorrow - off to Lewiston, Idaho. A stop off on the way to Yellowstone National Park.

We have enjoyed our stay with Mark and Jeannie. They were great hosts-nothing was too much for them. Their house which is part of a 6 house plot overlooks the Pught Sound. They even have a 2 person kayak to paddle around. They have seen seals and orcas.

They are going to Africa in April/May next year for a month. I am tempted to offer to house sit for them. They have also suggested we meet them in Hawaii sometime soon. Which sounds like the beginnings of a plan.

So that's it for now. Sorry no photo's. Did send some to Regan/Karla via whatsapp and to Even via snapchat.

A. Day in Seattle

Up bright and early this morning-off to Olympia Airport to swap cars. Left with Mark around 7:40 am (the roadside service assured me they will be ready with a swap car, but full up with gas first. So we did. Arrived to find a note stuck to the door,"away assisting a client be back soon and ring this number". We rang and heard the phone ringing in the office. They didn't set the divert to cell function. Mark saw another note saying to pick up a rental if the office is unattended go next door to Glacial air, they will assist. So we did, no luck cannot change cars (the guy behind the counter told us the Herzt office is a one-man-band. So we waited. Clear day, but cold breeze. After 40 minutes waiting we gave up and went back to Marks for breakfast. Mark jumped on the phone and rang Dollar and Hertz. Success. All we need to do is drive up to Seattle-Tacoma (sea-tac) international airport then a swap can be completed.

Quick note: Olympia is the capital of Washington State. Their House of Representatives sit only part of the year (part time politicians). Olympia airport however has no commercial flights. So it begs the question. Why is there a Hertz office at the airport?

The day by now was both sunny and warm (around 61 degrees F). So we all took off to Sea-Tac (2 cars) the aim was to leave our replacement car at the airport and pick it up on the way back to Olympia. This plan proved very successful. The people at Thirfty were very help full. Why Thirfty, that needs a little more explaination.

Arrived in downtown Seattle around 12 noon. Parked at Pike Market and had a good walk around, even saw the fish monger a throwing large Halibut fish to one-another (about 5 metres between them).

Walked around the historic area and settle for a seafood lunch-Alaskan razor clam chowder (very nice).

Next on the list was a visit to the outdoor sculpture park (see photo's on previous page). Walked around until around 3 pm. From here we were off to the EMP (experience music project). The whole thing was paid for by some guy who started Microsoft along with Bill Gates.

First we saw an exhibit on the evolution of guitars (see the statue on the previous page), then we visited an exhibit of Nivanna (they started in rural Washington) and Jimi Hendrix (born in Seattle). Both were very interesting (got to see a a guitar donated by Eric 'slow hand' Clapton.

Next on the visiting list was the Sci-fi exhibit, exceptionally well done (had Cybor men and daleks from Dr Who.

Finally we visited the WoW exhibit -all the way from NZ.

By now I was 5pm. So we went to a coastal suburb for dinner-Ray's. Very nice. Had cod and a diet drink.

Back to Sea-Tac to pick up our replacement car (they were ready and waiting for us. As I walked up to the booth, they guy came out with the keys and documentation he said "ready to go Ronald". Now that is service.

The car is a Nissan Sentra and has GPS!!!!

Drove back to Olympia with Marks help (I needed it -6 to 8 lanes of traffic going both ways, plenty of spaghetti junctions etc.

Great day, made better by having a car without a windscreen crack. Thank goodness for CDW insurance.

More photos

The Astoria tower

View from Astoria tower

Astoria bridge

Astoria bridge, Washington State in distance.

Shots from Mark and Jeannie's house

Three photos from the outdoor sculpture park in Seattle

Us ( moi, Mark and Jeannie's at Pikes Market. Seattle.

Better late than never photos

Astoria -bridge in back ground

Astoria wharf frontage

Astoria 

Historic Eureka

Rain

After another good breakfast (this time the hot food was bacon, scambled eggs and link sausages), I had oats!!! We hit the road.

Drove down to the Oregon coast as Rte 101. Hit rain, and rain and more rain. Stopped briefly at Seaside (at a Safeway) to buy wines and cheese to take to Mark's. Not cheap if you don't have a Safeway card. 

Stopped in Astoria for lunch. Interesting town. Built at the mouth of the Columbia River. Home to the pilots that navigate the large ocean going freight ships over the sand bars at the rivers entrance. At Astori the oven pilots give way to the river pilots that then navigate the ships a 100 odd miles up the river to Portland. So along the rivers edge were lots of building with banners proclaiming them to Pilots no 12 or 14 etc. Most now turned into resturantes or shops. Before the Astoria bridge was built the only wat to cross a very large expanse of water was by ferry boat. The original town was built on the river (on piles) as there was step hills along side the river. In 1923 a fire destroyed most of the town (the piles can still be seen), so the town moved on to land -the streets just go along the hill (a bit like Virginia city). Drove up to the Asotoria colum (which is 125 feet high, which we climbed-some 164 steps) for a view over the Columbia and inland. The tower was built in 1911.

Now we crossed the Astoria Bridge- some 5 miles across (and very high to allow ocean going ships to pass over). Carried on Rte 101 North. Mixture of small towns (based on sea food, namely oysters ). The drive covered large tracks of wetlands (with sloughs) and forest. 

No rain today, just overcast with a temp of 12 degrees.

Coming into Olympia had to use data and Google maps to get us close to where they live. Then Marks instructions took over. Finally arrived around 4 pm. Great drive.

The crash continues to grow. I rang roadside assistance and arranged to swap cars tomorrow morning here in Olympia.

Great to catch up with Mark and Jeannie's again (they had visited us back in February, and spent time with me up at Mahanga). 

Had a great night drinking wine and eating cheese followed by pulled pork. 

Then off for a long overdue sleep.

Until tomorrow.

Driving the I-5 North

Today is going to be a long day of driving the interstate north.

We slept late, had breakfast around 10 am.

Diane is an interesting person to talk to. She is a homeopath, she works 3 days a week out of her home here with Regen. When they brought the property (both of them sold their respective homes to buy this one) they added some additional rooms, one is Diane's office/consulting room and one her den (office). It is a lovely warm house and the animals just add to it.

Left around 11 am hit I-5 and drove, and drove, and drove. Stoped for lunch and gas and drove some more. Interstates are very good for going fast (if you don't mind all the 18 wheeler trucks cruising along at 65 mph. In reality I-5 is a race track.

The one noticeable thing about driving I-5 was how the big billboards advertising accommodation or some attraction now includes where to stop and buy some Marijuana, those billboards blew me away. 

Arrived at our accommodation- Quality Inn, Tigard around 5 pm. By now the weather was around 10 degrees and very overcast -but no rain.

The Quality Inn was just as good, big comfortable bed, great leather chairs plus ottoman to sit on, but alias only a 32 inch TV screen and rather patchy internet connectivity.

After dinner, just watched a little TV. Tomorrow we drive to Mark and Jeannie's place in Olympia, Washington.

So, that's all folks-until tomorrow..... Sorry let me bring you up to date with the growing crack in the wind screen. Today it reached a fill 12 cm's and it grow daily. While at Regen's I rang roadside assistance (after all I am paying US$7 plus Tx a day). They offered me two choices...stop in at Eugene while driving north today (not a choice due to my Navmii isn't going) or wait until we get to Olympia (it is the capital of Washington State after all), which we figure is the best choice.

When are we going to have a holiday?

This is the question posed to me by she who cannot be named when I woke her up at 8 am this morning. A good question as to date we have camped in Wellington airport and then had a long drive to get back to my original itinerary.

Last night we stayed at the Comfort Inn Humboldt Bay. very nice and comfortable, we had a king size bed which was we accommodating and the pillows were spot on for me. But, best of all was the 45 inch LED TV. Great.

Breakfast's at the hotels to date have been very good. Today they offered hot food (apart from the waffle machine); scrambled eggs, sausage pattie with gravy and biscuit - not for me. Just had the usual. Though to be clear 'she who can not be named' did break out to eggs.

Left the hotel around 9.30. Stopped for gas ($2.65 per US gallon. Not bad when you are driving a car that gets around 38 mpg.

Our first stop was historical downtown Eureka (right on an estuary). When we arrived it was just us, a few older street people-drinking coffee or packing up their belongings or a few older people walking down to the board walk to fed the seagulls. We walked along the board walk and then around the Victorian buildings. Nothing opens until 11 am in Eureka. (Photos to follow, once the photographer gets up and gives me the memory card). So around 10.30 we called it quits and hit the road. From Eureka to Regen's home just south of Medford is about 3 and a half hours driving.

The drive north to Crescent city was pretty nice scenic wise. Drove through a number of small hamlets which seemed to have either a cafe or tavern but all having wood for sale. Must be a depressed economy in this part of Northern California. The vegetation was either Redwood forest, beaches or swamps/wetlands (where she who can not be named saw a couple of young elk grazing, me I was concentrating on driving.

Missed the short cut coming into Crescent City so had to carry on into town to join 199 to Grants Pass. The town seemed quite affluent, plenty going on, including a farmers market. I think 'she who can not be named would have liked to stroll through it (parking was difficult to say the least). From Crescent city we turned inland and climbed over the coastal mountains to Oregon. A good if slow drive. A few stop/go situations where they are working on the road. Stopped at a rest area (the only one on this road) for a break and to finish off the sandwhiches we bought in Fort Bragg (yesterday). Nice and sunny, but a little cool -about 12 degrees C. The rest area had signs about not feeding the Bears, we didn't see any. Then it was off to Oregon.

In Oregon passed through a few small towns, one or two looked depressed. But what did strike me was the appearance of marijuana shops.Here in Oregon it is legal to purchase and smoke for personal use, you just can't smoke it in public. In Oregon the vegetation changed. The Redwoods gave way to meadows and spruces and different types of pines.

Grants Pass ( a booming city-full of Walmarts, Targets etc). Here we joined I-5 south for a 43 mile drive down to Regen's place. We arrived around 3 pm and meet his new partner (soon to be married) Diane plus two dogs (Merlin and Saddie) and two cats (whose names I never bothered to know).

Regen has just over an acre of land. Very narrow (about 22 metres across, but very long). Spent the rest of the afternoon just talking. Around 5 pm decided to take the dogs for a walk in the hills. Great 3 mile walk in the growing gloom of evening. Spent the night talking and talking and talking. Evan may have got a commitment to visit us in NZ

So that's it. Another good drive. But the question is, have I answered the question posed at the beginning of the day? Perhaps 10 days in Fiji or Tahitit would have been a better choice?

A Big Drive

Today will be a very long drive (6+ hours) to get us back on the itinerary.

After a reasonably early breakfast, typical hotels fare, we hit the road. Drove Rte 1 through San Francisco. Typical heavy traffic congestion (with lots of traffic lights) we got to 101. Ran into fog on the Golden Gate Bridge. Stopped at a vista point for views to Alcartraz (shrouded in Fog), downtown San Fran, could see just the tops of the high rises.

Then back onto Rte 101, 3 lanes both ways, traffic all going 80 mph plus (speed limit 65 mph). We decided to get back to Rte 1 (coastal rode), so we dropped onto 138 throgh vineyards (all looking rustic and very unlike NZ vineyards). What a road, very windy, very demanding. Stopped at Boonville for a break and coffee. Quaint is a word I would use to describe Boonville. Good coffee and according to Lynley, great empanadas. Drove through coastal redwood fores before we hit Rte 1, fog!!. Didn't stop in Mendocino (we were booked to stay there last night, will go back someday), the town from the road look very New English(ish). Stopped in Fort Bragg (at a Safeway) to buy a sandwich plus 6 pack of water and a few bottles of wine. The road back to 101 was long, with many bends, so slow going.

While at Fort Bragg, we discovered a crack in the car windscreen. Will need to contact Dollar and sort something out. We will monitor the crack between now and Olympia.

Route 101 was just as hectic, lots of road works. Diverted to Avenue of the Giants to drive between giant redwood trees.

By now it was around 3.30 pm. So decided that Eureka and our motel was still and hour away. 

Finally made our motel Comfort Inn around 4:45 pm. Checked in a started to relax.

Went for a small walk and stopped in to Have Chinese. When we were given a fortune cookie, yours truely forgot there was my fortune in it.....I ate it with out thinking...Lynley just about fell about laughing.

So that's it took us almost 8 hours to get here. Tomorrow will be much easier. 

I must report that the photographer started work today. I will try and include a few of her 'great' shots here.

Golden Gate in fog

Statue at Golden Gate vista point: dedicated to all lost seamen.

Driving the Coastal Redwoods on Rte 128

Yours truely with out upgrade car. A Kia somethings....

Avenue of the Giants. Giant Redwoods.

Giant Redwoods with our car for scale.