Wednesday, October 9, 2013

The ABBA Chronicles

Here we are travelling in the Land of the Midnight sun, tall blonde people and ABBA, hence "The ABBA Chronicles". Welcome to Sweden.

Step 1.The Flight Over ( Auckland to Stockholm).

The start did not go well. Got to Wellington airport ready to rock n' roll, only to find we were weight listed (we had booked and paid approximately 6 months ago), Go Air New Zealand. Once the problem was sorted off we went to Auckland. Thankfully Thai International was more organised, no problems. The 12 hour flight to Bangkok was good, well apart for the last 4 to 6 hours when we began experiencing problems with our entertainment system- shock, horror, the system failed completely about 4 hours out. We found a replacement, namely the airplane had a camera mounted externally under it. So, we watched the action outside as we flew over the different islands (like East Timor) we could see dense jungle, settlements and roads. What great entertainment. Watching us land at night in Bangkok in very heavy rain was interesting.
After a 4 hour stop over it was another 10 hour flight to Arlanda (Stockholm's international airport). This flight went smoother than we anticipated. In our section of the aircraft (the back in cattle class) there were only about 12 paying customers- so we got a whole row to ourselves. Got to stretch out an actually sleep and the entertainment system worked very well.
The flight path to Arlanda took us over a number of countries ending in "stan" and Russia, Latvia before the Baltic Sea and Stockholm.
Regan made an interesting observation on both flights. The first out of Auckland was the usual mix of tourists (going to or returning to Thailand). What was significant was the number of middle age European males travelling with Asian wives and one young child. While the composition of our fellow passengers to Stockholm were mainly middle class European males (estimated at 95%) the remainder were either Asian women (presumably Thai). We counted only 6 European women. Was this an indicator of the pull of Thailand's Sex tourism? We thought yes.

Stockholm
Arrived just before 7 am on Monday October 7. Immigration was quick with no paperwork required. Customs, was it open? We along with everybody else just walked out.
Hopped on a bus with wifi and around 8:30 we were dropped off at the central trainstation. We caught a subway (called T bana) to Gamla Stan (Old town) and walked about 200 metres to our hotel - Malardrottningen Hotel & Restaurant (the name means Queen of Lake Lake Malaren). More on this story later on.
Thankfully, our room was available (at 9:30 am), so we checked in, showered and had a wee rest.
Took the T bana to Sodermalm (really Stockholm doesn't have suburbs but rather Islands- Stockholm is located on an island archipelago. So Sodermalm is one such island, our boat hotel is moored at Riddarholmen Island etc. Anyway we wandered around Sodermalm generally heading back to our hotel. It was very interesting.


We had arranged to meet Karla and a friend at Sergels Torg (Torg means square or plaza) at 3:50 pm to take a "Free Walking Tour of Gamla Stan". The walk was interesting and informative, would highly recommend it. Saw our first Viking rune, a square where a king of Denmark slaughtered a whole bunch of Swedish nobility because they had defied his capturing the then Stockholm (now Gamla Stan). It appeared that Denmark and Sweden were fighting regularly. Today, they compete for bragging rights. Anyway early Stockholm owes a vote of thanks to German businessmen who poured money into early Stockholm and were responsible for its development. The tour took us past the Royal Palace (yes the Swedes have a King and Queen), past the parliament (Riksdagshuset). The tour lasted approximately 90 minutes. They asked you tip them what you thought the tour was worth to you. Interesting concept.

Following this we had dinner on Sodermalm around Slussen
 
The square where the local nobles were put to the sword by the Danish King. The significance of the red house, apparently the local who lived there had it painted red to signify the blood spilt on that day. On the top are sculptured heads of the nobles who died that day. ( photo by Evan)

Happy campers? 
Tuesday Oct 8.

 We arranged to meet Karla and Sara at Sergels Torg at 10 am to join another walking tour that covered modern Stockholm. This was interesting. We stood outside the building (that at the time was a bank ) which gave rise to the term "the Stockholm syndrome", we observed the building architecture that was heavily influenced by France (17th and 18th Century) and by the Swedish desire to have architecture of the good Ole USA, namely New York. As it turns out the USA influence came about by the large number of Swedish farmer workers who immigrated to the USA to better their lives. Apparently the Industrial revolution was a little arriving in Sweden, so it was a somewhat poor and backward nation. I think about 1/5th of the population immigrated. The French influence is even greater, the Swedes, got rid of their local royalty and rather than go down the Republic road, went to France to ask Napoleon to become their king or recommend someone, which he did. One of his senior generals took on the role, defeated Denmark, gained Norway (which he gave limited self rule) and changed his name to Gustav or Carl (or Karl). Anyway his family line continues to rule to this day. Also they built a bigger palace based on Versailles. So there is a strong French connection.
Walked past the Nobel museum etc, which was coincidentally naming this years winners - Physics was today.
After a brief lunch break walked down to City Hall- a big impressive building on Lake Malaren. Of course when it was built it had to be a little higher than Copenhagen's city hall spire. Karla and Sara left us as they had to get to their ferry (to Riga- Latvia). Regan and I set of to visit the Vasa museum located on Djurgarden Island. Had intended to catch a ferry, but couldn't find it, so we walked. Sore feet was the result.
The Vasa museum houses a big 17th Century warship called the Vasa. It was built to fight in the 30 year war which was fought between the Protestants and Catholics (the Swedes were protestants, mainly due to the fact that the Romans never made it to Sweden orScandinavia thanks to the northern German tribes). Anyway, on the 10 August 1628 the Vasa left the royal shipyards on her maiden voyage. it got 1500 metres from her berth, when a light breeze caught her, she heeled and never recovered, she sank in Stockholm harbour. The boat didn't have a sufficient beam or ballast. She lay on the bottom forgotten for 333 years until the late 1950's when a local started to look for her. In 1961 it was salvaged. Thanks to the brackish water of the Baltic Sea and Stockholm's polluting the harbour the vessel was in ver good condition. 98% of the vessel is original.    The ship is magnificent, would recommend   seeing it if you come to this part of the world. Equally impressive was the open access wifi the museum offers. You can download mp3 files about the Vasa or as in our case send emails/photo's or read NZ newspapers while walking around this impressive ship.

Bow of the Vasa (named after a noble family). Vasa means shieve of corn ( excuses spelling).

 

Part of city hall
Wednesday Oct 9.

Caught a ferry out to Vaxholm in the island archipelago, very good trip. The colours of the trees (autumn). Vaxholm was pretty much closed for winter. small town/ harbour, which reminded me a little like Queenstown in the 1960's/70's. Small narrow street running from the harbour. cafe's etc. Mostly all closed. From Vaxholm we caught a bus back towards Stockholm. Went past a very big impressive university. Caught a T bana back to T Central, then onto the open museum called Skansen (on Djurgarden). Skansen is impressive (if mainly closed for winter). It is living heritage museum dedicated to preserving Sweden's cultural history. A very large Cobblestones museum (in Greytown). We visited different houses from Lapland (sami), 18th century wood workshops, farm houses etc. All had people in costumes for the time, undertaking the tasks associated with the time period etc. very informative. Saw a few Lapland reindeer, Swedish cows, sheep etc associated with 18th Century Sweden. However, the wolves, wolverines etc were resting (possibly after a busy demanding summer season).
Overall was very impressed with Skansen.
We walked past the ABBA museum but unlike Australians were not drawn ti visit it, but I think Regan secretly wanted to visit.

The Malardrottningen Hotel:

This motor-yacht, named the MS Vanadis was given to Barbara Hutton ( American millionaire's daughter - think Woolworth's) as a 19th birthday present. not to bad but she was given 1 million dollars for 21st birthday ( given as a cheque under her napkin on her breakfast tray.  The ship was sold by her to the Royal Navy for one pound sterling during WW2. Following this period it returned to Stockholm and was once a passenger ship carrying people from Stockholm to Abo (in Finland). Now it is a floating hotel. We are currently staying in the First Officers Cabin (which is large, with a small head), and no bunks. The breakfast is very good, as is the evening meals. Had my first plate of Swedish meatballs with ligon berry sauce- very nice.

A view of our room
        



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